NORTHWESTERN FJORD, AK
Tent Time Edits… Preview |
August 2014.
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Despite an amazing trip, weather was at a full roar. Alaska gnarled it's teeth and shared unpredictability with it's reach. That led to the gift of extreme time in a tent and tarps. Hours of being hunkered down, led to cribbage, reading a motorcycle gang book and learning a new iOS video editor. I know… the trip looks promising… but it was wet cubed! Too crazy to film outside at times. This movie was put together inside a tent while in the swirl of an extended storm. Conclusion of the video editor… I like it. Powerful for field work and crafty interface for simplicity with options. Better than iMovie and other apps I have used. My favorite at this time. Movie may be streamed or downloaded depending on connection.
Technical Details Camera/Editor: iPhone 5s iPhone Case: Lifeproof Editing App: Pinnacle Studio for iPhone v.5 Run Time: 4:32 Format: .mp4 Downloadable: Yes |
August, 2014. A friend said, Mother Nature was a "moody bitch" this summer in Alaska. He got back from a July trip touring Kenai Fjords and more in AK. A statement that couldn't have been more true from our experience as well. It's been 14 years since Jeff and I paddled Aialik Bay in Kenai Fjords National Park, AK. This time we finally returned to ply Northwestern Fjord. An area we targeted to paddle some day. This place is exceptional for scale, remoteness, multiple tidal glaciers, territory, wildlife and delivery what AK can dish out - good and bad. We know from the past, good can be exceptionally good! Statistically pick the most favorable time and cross your fingers. Our experience this time? Some of it was evident while much of it elusive.
We used Miller's Landing in Seward to once again outfit us for kayak rental, insertion and pick up at Drop Off Beach just inside Northwestern Fjord. The plan… paddle deep into the fjord, advance camp throughout the system, visit multiple tidal glaciers, hike to the top of Striation Island and let adventure unfold. Our time window was reasonable, 7 days to explore. We were delivered in favorable conditions. Good seas, weather and sky. The drop off provided spectacular vantage and teased what lay ahead. We established camp at Drop Off Beach, and were afforded a late afternoon paddle. Calm water with amazing views. We had time to take bearings, familiarize ourselves to surroundings, shake out gear and prepare to advance camp. We were stoked. By late evening, weather conditions changed drastically. Heavy rain fell and intense wind kicked up. Within 36 hours, 30 of it was under a fire hose with wind gusts topping 45-50 mph. Listening to the marine forecast on a VHF radio, it was clear our timing was unfortunate. We were established in a low pressure system not willing to relent. It continued to build and remain strong. Each new forecast was dismal. Millibars kept dropping. The fjord opens to the Gulf of Alaska allowing systems to build, move with speed and change rapidly. Reality… Adventure did unfold, but on Mother Nature's terms. This "moody bitch" was in the house! It was prudent to stay put and not advance camp. Some evenings had us holding the tent frame inside from collapse. In the tent, we snuggled in our sleeping bags inside bivy sacks. Played countless games of cribbage, read, played DJ, laughed and remained positive. Exiting the tent required gearing up in rubbers. Gore-Tex was no match. We eventually moved the tent from the spit closer to tree line for additional protection. Tarpology was established to make a kitchen and living room. Getting out to stretch, eat and once again enjoy the world in a vertical position was a simple pleasure masked in a dance of yoga moves to gear up. Because of yogi, sleeping, cooking and hang out areas needed to be kept separate and clean. With so much non-stop rain, the ability to rinse was easy. Throughout our stay, weather provided little opportunity to paddle and cover any real distance. We made various contingency plans but were thwarted by unstable conditions. In all, we paddled less than 5 hours for the week. When we could we did micro paddles. I never once donned my drysuit. Just gliding on water in the beauty of the fjord was remarkable. Watching weather systems roll in and out was incredible. Waterfalls in multiple unfolded. A glacier above our camp sent a roaring river down the mountain side. Ancient boulders tumbled from falling water leaving impressive sounds. Calving glaciers constantly spoke and told stories. We saw a massive avalanche on a mountainside release and run continuously for 3 minutes. We questioned the location of our camp due to flooding from rainfall and exceptionally high tides. The setting was well lubricated. From camp a constant view of our intended journey rotated from completely closed to abated. Teasing us with temptation to advance at times or seek distance in a micro paddle. The curiosity to drill deeper, ply around a further corner was always nagging. But it was clear, we were guests and Mother Nature was not permissive. The mystery and beauty what lies beyond our view, remains. The Simple pleasures… A Humpback whale greeted us on our way in. Seals and otters inspected us with heads bobbing anytime we were on the water. Sea birds gulped small fish stuffing their beaks like a frothy beer. Nature took opportunity to recover in small ways like us as weather permitted. Fresh non-stop running water, from a tarp kept us well hydrated. The warmth of flame from a camp stove was invigorating. Good food and beer on hand, made time pass with laughter. Oil and good vinegar rocked! A visit to the Punjab Cafe kept us humored. Our views whether open or closed was always waterfront, either on a beach or stood guard at the sole of our boots. The tent was amazing (Hello Nemo!). Digitally, Mophie kept us juiced. Sentinels of seals lined around the corner. Sea birds worked together as they hunkered through the weather. Colors were vibrant and nature was healthy. Water droplets detailed delicate flora and fauna. A mother Humback Whale breached on our exit with it's calf. A perfect way to bookend our entrance and exit. Thanks to Captain Tom Miller for punching out to pick us up during a narrow weather window - even when other Captains declined the run. And lastly, my partner. 30 years of adventures with Jeff, seasoned us for this. I think we set a new record for being continuously stuck in a tent. Things I don't understand… Why a deep collection of pine cones was placed around a dead tree? What animal brought these cones to establish a habitat? What burrowed holes in a carpet of cones for a home? Where was yogi? We kept calling. Where did I lose my hat? How come we didn't bring more beer? Waaaay more beer? The ending… We returned to Miller's Landing after a bumpy ride back. Stayed in a small cabin at Miller's and rigged lines to dry gear while spending the night there. Part Two of the adventure unfolded in a quest to find dry weather. We took Seward Bob's Bus back to Anchorage and rented a car. Headed north for 6 hours and arrived in Healy, AK. next to Denali National Park. Road trip! Felt like I was in high school again. Dry, freedom, with my buddy, music and full of autonomy…. WAHOO! For that adventure, click here. For Northwestern Fjord, perhaps another time. No regrets on this trip despite our paddle objective being somewhat dashed. Fortunately we were well prepared and geared. Made prudent decisions, exercised caution, lived in laughter and were surrounded by beauty. This trip wasn't about survival at all, it was about patience. This time, it wasn't our turn to go deeper. With a special adventure partner/friend, I feel privileged to see Alaska raise it's roar, smile and wink at us occasionally. Yes… It was worth the trip and stories we'll carry. Logistic Details: Flight Seattle > Anchorage Train Anchorage > Seward Water Taxi Seward > Northwestern Fjord Northwestern Fjord > Seward Bus Seward > Anchorage Car Rental Anchorage > Healy > Denali NP Healy > Anchorage Flight Anchorage > Seattle |